The thing with Disney is, as you can see with the originally proposed EPCOT, it was originally meant to become so much more than 'just' a theme park attraction. Walt thought big, and yes some of his ideologies do remain at the heart of the company, his incredibly innovative, original and sometimes seemingly insane thinking died with him. And then 'logical' thinking and business plans took over, and Disney stuck with the 'safe' route of doing things, in order to prosper financially. I'm not disregarding the fact that many of the attractions we see coming out of Disney parks and saying they aren't fantastic, because many of them are, but they're very restricted and keep within the confines of 'theme park attraction' and that is all.
EPCOT (the one we have now) may seem un-Disney because it doesn't really base itself on the well known characters (not as much, anyway) but I feel EPCOT really embodies the Walt way of thinking. Of exploring the world, educating ourselves, looking into the future and not being scared to be adventurous, outrageous and innovative in our own thinking. EPCOT gives us a chance to (superficially, and within the confines of a theme park attraction, of course) explore something we may never have had the chance to before or simply that had never crossed our minds before. I think the place is really inspirational. And you are right when you say it doesn't feel like stuff is happening to you, EPCOT is about finding things out for yourself and taking fun from discovery and learning and being astounded by the planet and the universe. I think it's breathtaking some of the crap they come up with XD